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Due to the weight of a T-BUCKET and the engine set back we recommend a LIGHT WEIGHT
brake system not only for the correct braking but also for the correct shock system
compatible with our friction shock system.
We sell a Wilwood aluminum hub and 3/8" thick rotor which is perfect for
your car. We also have many options and a fender bracket kit to go along with these
brakes.
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Total Performance not only supplies
friction shocks but we also have a special
hydraulic shock system which mounts to our chassis using the friction
shock stud and the lower portion of the shock attaches to the lower bar of your
front radius rod.
Remember our front radius rods are manufactured from 3/4" o.d. tubing and the bushings
supplied are designed to fit over "our 3/4" radius rods. If your rods are larger
than ours you will have to modify the bushings to fit properly. Also included in
our kit are tie bars to adapt and tie the upper and lower rods together to give
them double shear strength.
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The dimensions of the T-BUCKET radiator are 19 1/4 inches wide and the tabs which
mount it to your chassis are 22 5/8 inches wide but must be cut and drilled to fit
into our chassis. The height to the top tank is 22 1/4 tall and to the top of the
dummy filler neck is 25 inches. The lower chassis mounting brackets are 3 1/2 inches
from the bottom of the radiator. The thickness is 3 inches.
We also sell two types of radiators. One is the economy series and the other is
our super series. The economy is designed for the basic small block engine applications
that are stock through out. Complete with pressure system and an oil cooler for
your automatic transmission. the super series is the ultimate in cooling system
radiators. Designed to cool the massive big block engines. This design is a must
for heavy duty applications. We recommend this if you have intentions of modifying
your engine.
click here to go to the radiators page
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All wheels may be ordered using the backspace guideline charts below, but remember
to measure your installation carefully.
Reversed wheels have rims turned around on the centers which allows for less backspace
and deeper front space.
No additional charges for reverse wheels or special backspacing.
NOTE:
Standard wheels with more than 4 1/2" backspace will NOT clear disc brakes.
Wheels are identified by their inside (wheel width) measurement. Overall
width is always one inch wider. For example: A 15 X 7 measures 7" bead-to-bead and
8" overall.
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STANDARD WHEEL BACKSPACE
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14 X 5 1/2
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14 X 6
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14 X 7
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15 X 5
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15 X 6
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15 X 7
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15 X 8
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15 X 10
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15 X 12
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15 X 14
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Standard
Backspace
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3
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3 1/4
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3 3/4
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2 3/4
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3 1/2
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4
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4
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4 1/2
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4 1/2
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4 1/5
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Minimum
Backspace
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3
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3 1/4
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3 3/4
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2 1/2
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3 1/2
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3 3/4
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3 3/4
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4 1/4
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4 1/2
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4 1/2
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Maximum
Backspace
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3 7/8
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4 3/8
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5 1/4
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3
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4 1/8
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5 1/4
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6
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7 1/2
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9 3/4
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11 3/4
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REVERSE WHEEL BACKSPACE
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14 X 5 1/2
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14 X 6
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14 X 7
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15 X 5
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15 X 6
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15 X 7
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15 X 8
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15 X 10
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15 X 12
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15 X 14
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Minimun
Backspace
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1 3/4
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1 3/4
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1 3/4
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2
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2
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2
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2
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2 1/2
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2
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2
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Maximum
Backspace
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2 5/8
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3
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3 1/2
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2 5/8
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2 3/4
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3 1/8
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4 1/2
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5 3/4
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7
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9
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Shipping Weights (lbs)
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21
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22
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24
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23
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25
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27
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28
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34
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39
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43
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Determining your Bolt Pattern
Follow the diagram to measure. You must add 1/4" to your measurement
to determine the correct bolt pattern.
For Example:
When X is 4 1/4"........your bolt pattern is 5 lugs on 4 1/2" bolt pattern.
When X is 4 1/2"........your bolt pattern is 5 lugs on 4 3/4" bolt pattern.
When X is 4 3/4"........your bolt pattern is 5 lugs on 5" bolt pattern.
When X is 5 1/4"........your bolt pattern is 5 lugs on 51/2" bolt pattern.
NOTE: Our 6-lug wheel measures 5 1/2" from the center of one stud, across the center
of the wheel, to the center of the stud directly opposite.
How to Determine Wheel Size
Following is a simple method to determine what size wheel will fit your vehicle.
This method will work on both stock front and/or rear ends, or those that have been
modified (widened or narrowed).
Let's say you want an 8" wheel in back and 6" up front.
1.) Jack up your front or rear end and remove the wheel.
2.) Cut a strip of wood 9" long (overall width of proposed 8"wheel) and hold the
wood in the fender where you know the wheel would clear everything (allow about
1" clearance on either side for "tire bulge").
3.) The amount of wood that extends back past the drum/rotor face would be the backspace
to order.
4.)Try the same at the front with a 7" wood strip (overall width for a 6" wheel)
to determine the backspace and clearance at the front.
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Frontend shimmy is caused by a number of things.
The combination of worn out components and or frontend alignment will cause serious
problems.
First and foremost, the components that make up the steering assembly must be in
good condition. These components are:
Tierod ends
Heim Joints
King Pins and bushings
Steering links
Drag link
Radius rods
Pittman arm
Steering box bushings
Hub bearings
Shackle bushings
All of these components must be in good condition. Replace any part which shows
wear, or movement beyond design specifications. If in doubt, replace it.
Assuming all of your components are OK, the next step is to align the frontend.
If your T Bucket has bias ply tires then you should have a maximum of 1/8" toe in.
Radials should be "0" to 1/8" toe out maximum.
The final step, (and VERY important) is to balance the complete rotating assembly!
Attempt to balance your tires mounted on the hubs if possible. If this option is
not available to you, then balance the components separately. Your drums or rotors
and tires must be accurately balanced!
Tire inflation has been a subject of controversy for a very long time. But there
is a basic starting point. For spoked wheels, (motorcycle type) start at MAXIMUM
inflation. Generally 45/50 lbs. For all other tires, start at 28/32 lbs. Test your
T on several road surfaces especially rough roads. Inflate or deflate your tires
to minimize bouncing. You will always get some bouncing, but less is better. Make
sure that both front tires have EXACTLY the same air pressure.
There is a big difference between shimmy and bounce! You need to avoid shimmy at
all costs! This is a self induced harmonic which will destroy your whole frontend
and possibly cause a serious accident. Shimmy starts when the rotating mass (tires,
wheels, hubs, and rotors or drums) harmonics go into oscillation with the steering
components(links, bushings, rods, and tie rods). They "push" against each other
causing a violent back & fourth motion (Shimmy). Because this motion is self
induced, it progresses until something breaks, or over come by an external force
(IE: hit the brakes and slow down). It is imperative that your frontend be in absolutely
perfect working order.
Have you ever rolled a tire around your garage, or down a street before? If you
have, then you may recall how the surface governed the direction the tire rolled.
This same condition exists on your T Bucket. To overcome this, a frontend alignment
is setup to create an equal force on both front wheels. This effect is called "toe
in" or "toe out". This equal force tends to overcome most road surfaces, making
the frontend responsive to the drivers command. However, too much of either can
create a new set of problems. Tire scuffing will be the first on the list. Then
there is the problem of shimmy. Toe in tends to cause shimmy more than toe out.
Zero toe in/toe out will virtually eliminate shimmy however your frontend will feel
"loose". In other words, your car will walk back and forth while cruising. This
effect is usually manageable, but annoying. Regardless which "toe" effect you need,
limit the adjustment to a maximum of 1/8" The next adjustment available to you is
"CASTER". This is the tilting of your king pin bosses. This caster effect tends
to make your front wheels follow the centerline of the front axle. Caster is good
for helping your T track straight. You always want the caster effect to "follow"
your axle. You adjust your caster by adjusting the length of the UPPER clevises
on your radius rods. Typically, about 5 degrees of caster is plenty, and in some
cases 2 or 3 degrees is all thats required. Have you ever pushed a shopping cart
around a grocery store, and noticed sometimes the front wheels shimmy? Thats way
too much caster! So go easy on your caster adjustment. Finally, there is camber...
you can't change it easily because it's built into the king pin bosses. However,
as your king pin bushings wear out, you induce more camber. So check your king pins
& bushings occasionally for wear.
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This is the layman's version on how to adjust a steering box. Please read it through
completely!
There are two adjustments, the worm bearing tension, and the gear mesh adjustment.
First, jack up the vehicle so the front wheels are off the ground, so the steering
is free to turn and, the steering box is centered. Put jack stands under the frame!
Whatever you do, “do not” try to adjust out the play at anything other than straight
ahead!! You'll kill the box on short order because the worm has a high spot in the
center position.
{Before attempting to do this first adjustment, make sure that you back off on the
gear mesh screw on the side of the box from 1 – 2 turns.}
The worm bearings are adjusted by loosening the big lock nut, then turning the bearing
housing. On the reversed Corvair box, look at the top of the box, where the steering
shaft (to the steering wheel) sticks out. On other steering boxes, this adjustment
is at the bottom of the box, at the front. Usually a hammer and blunt punch will
loosen the locknut. The bearings should be adjusted to get a few inch-pounds
of drag on the worm gear (steering wheel), but you can adjust it by tightening up
to remove the play, then go just a smidgen tighter, and tighten the locknut securely
{make sure you hold the adjusting nut in place while tightening the lock nut}.
Now, turn the steering wheel from lock-to-lock. There should be no binding. If there
is, loosen the worm shaft adjustment slightly until the binding is gone.
Next, adjust the gear mesh, which is the slotted screw with a {usually} 5/8" hex
locknut. Get the steering centered (wheels straight ahead), and loosen the
locknut. Gradually tighten the adjusting screw in, while frequently checking the
steering play by turning the steering wheel back and forth a turn or two...but leave
it centered when adjusting. Eventually, you will take up the slack, unless the gears/bushings
are really worn, in which case the adjusting screw will go all the way into the
box! (Not good). Tighten till the slack is all gone, then add about a half turn
of preload to it. If all is well, you should feel the steering get just a little
bit harder as you pass thru the center of the steering wheel's travel. Tighten the
locknut securely, and enjoy the "new" feel of driving your vehicle.
A good gear lube from the local GM dealer works really well. The correct GM part
# for this lubrication is 1052182. This lube is half way between grease and oil.
Oil is too thin and leaks out, and grease is too thick and won't properly lube the
re-circulating balls.
If all the above adjustments fail and you don’t want to attempt rebuilding a box
yourself, buy a rebuilt or new unit to replace it with.
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TP bodies have 14" pick up bed and non-opening doors.
Outside to outside Dimensions to check:
Widest point: 46"
Narrowest point: 27 1/2" (bottom of firewall)
Top of dash to floor: 20 1/2"
Top of door to floor: 17-1/4"
Top of back to floor: 22 3/4"
Dash to rear: 44 1/4".
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